Row Your Boat

PADDLING THE BRAZOS RIVER

BY ANNETTE BROOKS

The Brazos River, Texas’s longest waterway at 840 miles, carves a path from the High Plains to the Gulf, offering paddlers a blend of serene waters, rugged beauty, and rich history. Canoeing or kayaking the Brazos is more than a weekend getaway — it’s a plunge into the Lonestar State’s wild heart. One of the best times to go is in the fall (October–November) to avoid the summer heat and for foliage and spotting eagles. So, check out our tips below, then plan to grab a paddle, hit the water, and let the Brazos weave its magic. Visit Brazos.org for general information.

BEGINNER-FRIENDLY CANOE TRIP

The 19-mile stretch from Highway 16 to Highway 4, navigable in a two-day, one-night trip, is considered the uppermiddle Brazos’ sweet spot for beginners. The river’s forgiving nature, with gentle currents, a wide channel, minimal obstacles, and no rapids tougher than Class I, suits novices. Paddlers enjoy sandy banks for easy breaks, shallow waters for wading, and prime wildlife spotting. Expect six to eight hours of paddling daily at a leisurely pace, leaving time for fishing (catfish abound) or wildlife spotting.

Paddlers can launch at the Highway 16 bridge below Possum Kingdom Lake. The journey ends at the FM 4 bridge (the Dark Valley Bridge), where a convenient takeout is available. Outfitters provide canoes or kayaks, life jackets, and paddles, but bring a dry bag, water, sunscreen, and insect repellent. This stretch’s accessibility and calm flow make it ideal for families or first-timers, with shuttle services simplifying logistics.

PLANNING HACK:CROSS-CHECK RIVER LEVELS

Nothing sours a paddling trip like dragging your canoe or kayak over shallow gravel bars. Autumn, particularly October and November, generally offers steady river f lows and mild temperatures. Outfitters typically report water levels but always check real-time water levels and flow conditions from the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) gauges. For the Highway 16 to Highway 4 stretch, monitor the Palo Pinto gauge (WaterData.usgs.gov/tx/nwis/inventory?site_no=08089000).

Visit Brazos.org/forms/downstreamnotification-signup to receive downstream notification of dam releases. Check weather forecasts, too.

BEST CAMPSITE FOR STARGAZING

The Brazos River sandbars are stargazing havens with low light pollution. Camp at the “Pecan Sandbar," a wide, flat island about 10 miles downstream from Highway 16, just past Chick Bend, for an amazing celestial show on a clear night. Shaded by sprawling pecan trees, it offers soft sand for tents and unobstructed sky views. Download a free stargazing app like Stellarium, which depicts a realistic night sky with stars, planets, constellations, and other celestial objects for your geo-location.

BALD EAGLE PADDLING DESTINATION

The upper-middle Brazos is a hotspot for bald eagle sightings, especially in fall and winter when migratory populations swell. The Highway 16 to Highway 4 section boasts the most consistent sightings, particularly near Ioni Creek, 12 miles downstream. Here, towering cottonwoods and limestone cliffs provide ideal perching spots, and the creek’s confluence attracts fish, drawing eagles. Bring binoculars and a waterproof camera for close-ups, and paddle quietly to avoid spooking them.

SCENIC STRETCH

Another reason we love the Highway 16 to Highway 4 route is that it’s often considered the Brazos’ most Insta-worthy paddle. Paddlers enjoy a 19-mile visual feast featuring limestone cliffs, vibrant fall foliage (October, November), and dramatic Palo Pinto Mountain backdrops. Two spots in particular stand out: Chick Bend (8 miles in): A sweeping curve where 50-foot limestone bluffs frame the river, reflecting in calm waters. Sycamores and oaks are blaze red and gold in autumn, perfect for golden-hour shots. Paddle slowly for mirror-like reflections. Ioni Creek Rapid (12 miles in): A gentle Class I rapid f lanked by willows and cedar-covered hills, the creek’s emerald inflow contrasts with the Brazos’ reddish hue. Capture action shots from the gravel bar below as canoes and kayaks glide through.

PRACTICAL TIPS FOR YOUR TRIP

Budget around $150 to $200 per person for a two-day trip (canoe/kayak rental, shuttle, food, and gas). Camping presently free on public sandbars, and you don’t generally need a permit to do so, but Texas law requires that canoes and kayaks be registered and licensed. Pack light. Take a tent, sleeping bag, lantern, water (1 gallon/day), dehydrated meals, sunscreen, and insect repellent (summer mosquitoes are fierce). Bring a fishing license if you intend to catch bass or catfish. Wear life jackets, paddle in pairs, and

carry a first aid kit, Flash floods are rare but monitor forecasts. Cell service is spotty, so share your itinerary before you leave.